The timer’s guts were liberated from the case and a simple wooden disc base with a 1/4″-20 threaded insert for a tripod screw was added. Let’s hope ’ time-lapse shots are under an hour, since he based his build on a simple wind-up kitchen timer, the likes of which can be had for a buck or two at just about any store.
But they can be a bit bland without a little camera motion, like that provided by a dirt-cheap all-mechanical panning rig. And with good reason – time-lapses are cool. Seems like the first thing the new GoPro owner wants to do is a time-lapse sequence.
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Posted in Phone Hacks, Software Hacks Tagged app, camera, documentation, ip camera, local network, phone, Still, time-lapse, timelapse, video, web server Heck, even older dumbphones can still get some use out of them Shmoocon 2017 brought us details on rolling your own 1G network. It could be a good way to get additional use out of an older smartphone, too. Perching a phone over a workspace and using it to create a time-lapse with a couple of shell scripts is a great example of combining simple tools to get better functionality. His capture script ( GitHub repository here) should therefore need only minor changes to work with just about any IP camera app. The app he uses for his iPhone normally serves video but has an undocumented feature that allows single frames to be downloaded by adding ‘/photo’ to the end of the URL, but the ability to get a still image is a common feature on IP camera apps for smartphones. ’s work is just the glue between two other things: an app that turns the phone into an IP camera with a web server on the local network, and the ability to grab a still image from that server on demand. Pretty neat stuff.ĭid you find a 3D printer under your Festivus Pole, and now you’re wondering what’s next? Check out ’s guide for 3D newbies for more tips.Ĭontinue reading “Trio Of Tips For A Cetus Printer” → Posted in 3d Printer hacks Tagged Cetus3D, frame dropping, heated bed, opencv, printer, time-lapseĪ good time-lapse video can be useful visual documentation, and since ’s phone is the best camera he owns he created two simple shell scripts to grab time-lapse images and assemble them into a video. This results in super smooth time-lapse sequences that make it look like the print is being extruded as a unit. Unhappy with the jerky time-lapse sequences that are standard fare, he wrote a Python program that uses OpenCV to compare webcam frames and save those that are similar to the last saved frame. Nothing revolutionary here - just built a quick cover from aluminum profiles and acrylic.īut the clear case allows for tip number three, the gem of this video: synchronized time-lapse photography. To contain the heat, tip two is an enclosure for the printer. He bolted some power resistors to the aluminum platen, built a simple controller, and used the oversized stock power supply to run everything. While the company offers a heated aluminum bed for ABS and PETG printing at a very reasonable price, rolled his own.
One such tinkerer,, has been taking his new Cetus 3D printer to new places, and his latest video offers a trio of tips to enhance the user experience of this bare-bones but capable printer. But most of us quickly learn that adding a dimension increases the level of difficulty substantially, and tinkering ensues. Some noobs are clearly in the “plug and play” camp, looking for a user experience no more complicated than installing a new 2D printer. It is a polycarbonate that is stronger than ABS, without the the shrinking issues of ABS.Thanks to the holiday gifting cycle, many homes are newly adorned with 3D printers.
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Polymaker PC max is supposed to be really nice, better than ABS in every way, except price. PLA is really a poor material for many things. When done printing, lift off the printing surface and flex it a bit. The mk3 has a flexible steel print surface that is powder coated with PEI, which he had to invent. Prusa does a lot of R&D, and is the first for many new things. So no worries about that.Prusa i3 mk3 looks really nice, will be upgrading mine to the 2.5 standard when able. Everything on there from the board to the nozzles can be replaced with other components for ease of repair or upgrading.Īnd it runs on software like Simplify 3D, CURA, Matter Control, KISS, Slic3r. But if you really want to do more than 3D print casually, look for something like the Creality CR10 and related designs. Special nozzles, tethered to software, propitiatory extruder, no information on the board or firmware.įor the price it's a good starter machine. Specific materials for casting as well.Īs for that machine, I'm glad people are enjoying it but. There are indeed materials that can do that.